Bordeaux 2011 – A Show of Winemaking Techniques / 2011波爾多「釀酒師競技之年」

1
After two ‘Vintage of the Century’ comes 2011, a year where the grapes endured challenging weather. Summer started in spring, fall became summer, and then fall turned into spring for harvest. This is a Vintage with mixed reviews mainly due to the bizarre weather patterns throughout the region. In my opinion, this vintage became a show of winemaking skills for the top of the crop vineyards.
經過了兩個世紀好年份後,2011年的波爾多葡萄酒面臨了氣候嚴峻的難題。那一年,波爾多的春天熱得像夏天,夏天又像秋天,而秋天收成時又變回了春季的氣候。拜這詭異的天氣所賜,2011的波爾多葡萄酒得到了正負兩極化的評價,但在我看來,這正是好好欣賞釀酒師們為保招牌施展渾身解數的年份。

3
During my media tasting at BC Liquor for the 2011 Bordeaux Release, Barbara Philip from BC Liquor selected 19 bottles. Among them my favorite within the value category is the Château Poujeau, Château Plince and Château Suduiraut. 2011Bordeaux will be released to the public in several BC Liquor Stores throughout the province on OCTOBER 4th, 2014.
這次受邀參加BC Liquor Store舉行的2011波爾多葡萄酒傳媒品酒會,主持人Barbara Philip為我們挑選了19瓶紅、白酒。其中我最喜歡、而且定我認為價最合理的,分別有Château Poujeau、Château Plince以及Château Suduiraut。2011年波爾多紅酒將於2014年10月4日在全省指定BC Liquor Store限量發售。

2
1. Château Belgrave, Haut-Médoc – $50
Produced from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc.
This wine consists of dark berry scents; it is approachable but still hard. It is medium bodied with medium tannin. This is a good value wine but needs time to mature.
60%卡本內蘇維翁、35%梅洛、5%卡本內佛朗,這瓶佳釀充滿黑莓果的香氣,雖不難入口但依然硬朗。酒體及單寧皆屬中度,定價雖合理但需時間醞釀。

4
2. Château Montrose, St-Estephe – $225
A blend made from 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. This wine is deep ruby in color. The nose is earthy with flavors of currants. On the palate it is full-bodied, tannic, concentrated with ripe black currant and chocolate.
63%卡本內蘇維翁、22%梅洛、12%卡本內佛朗、3%味而多,呈深紅寶石色澤。香味樸實而充滿莓果醋栗香味,入口後酒體厚實、重單寧,黑加侖及巧克力味道豐富。

5
3. Château Latour, Pauillac – $1,500
This sophisticated and masculine wine is lacking in flavor if compared to its 2010 or 2009 counterparts but demonstrates how master technique can compensate for poor environmental conditions. Blended from 84.5 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 0.5% Petit Verdot. Subtle, refined and elegant, this Vintage displays a classic Latour taste. Filled with a concentration of blackberry and black currant aromas with an aftertaste of dried citrus rind.
這瓶優雅且大器的紅酒相比起2010或2009兩個年份,雖然在味道上顯得不夠豐富,但釀酒師的高超技術卻彌補了氣候異常所造成的缺陷。由84.5%卡本內蘇維翁、15%梅洛和1.5%味而多混合而成,低調、細膩且高雅的質感,使這瓶酒重現了Latour的經典之味。

6
4. Château Grand Puy Lacoste, Pauillac – $98
Blended from 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22 % Merlot. This wine had a complexity made up of earthy gravel scents; its medium body is dominated by red fruit flavors with soft tannins. This wine is honest and demonstrates the Pauillac styling clearly. This is a cellar must have but time is needed for it to shine.
78%卡本內蘇維翁和22%梅洛,此酒由一系列的大地香氣混合出各種氣味層次,中度酒體和輕度單寧激盪出紅莓果的甜美,忠實地呈現出傳統的Pauillac態度。這瓶佳釀絕對是收藏之選,但亦需時間沉澱。

6
5. Château Branaire Ducru, St.Julien – $95
Produced from 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. This wine was better on the palate than on the nose. It is filled with rich sweet black cherry, espresso and truffle flavors accompanied by a medium body with soft tannins.
67%卡本內蘇維翁、24%梅洛、5%卡本內佛朗、4%味而多,此酒的個性需在舌尖上才能展現出來。豐富的黑莓果甜味、意大利濃縮咖啡、松露氣味伴隨著中度酒體和輕度單寧。

6
6. Château Lascombes, Margaux– $120
Made from a Blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. This Vintage is made for new wine investors with a modern style. The nose consists of fresh coffee, vanilla and dark cherries. It has a full body and finishes with ripe, jammy black fruit with spice.
55%梅洛、40%卡本內蘇維翁、5%味而多,此佳釀是專為新銳投資者而打造的。聞起來有新鮮咖啡、香草和深紅櫻桃的香味,入口後則展現厚重酒體並以黑加侖、野黑櫻桃和香辛料作結。

7
7. Château Palmer, Margaux – $399
A 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and 49% Merlot blend. This wine is about elegance and purity of floral, cassis and raspberry fruit notes. If the past two vintages were too expensive for you, this is a good year to taste what Château Palmer has to offer.
51%卡本內蘇維翁混以49%梅洛。此酒強調細膩、純淨的紅莓果香。如果過去兩個年份超出了你的預算,不妨考慮購入這瓶2011年的Château Palmer!

8
8. Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan – $90
Produced from 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. A well balanced and charming wine with lots of tobacco, blackberry, espresso roast on the nose and fresh plum and cherries on the palate. This wine is light to medium bodied with subtle tannins; it is ready to drink now while we wait for the heavier weight wines to mature.
65%卡本內蘇維翁、30%梅洛、5%卡本內佛朗,各方面都表現平均的一瓶酒。煙草、黑莓、意大利濃縮咖啡入鼻,爾後是新鮮黑棗及櫻桃的味道覆蓋舌尖。輕至中度酒體及柔和的單寧,這瓶酒已經熟成完畢,可開瓶共賞。

9
9. Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan – $150
Blended from 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. This wine is still in its youth with lots of fresh, clean blackberry and earthy aromas. It is medium bodied with again fresh, unripe black cherries on the palate. It’s obvious this wine needs some time and should be interesting to taste after 5 years.
50%卡本內蘇維翁、47%梅洛、3%卡本內佛朗,此酒還年輕,散發出濃濃的黑莓和大地香氣,酒體屬中度。如能再沉澱五年左右,此酒必然大有作為。

10
10. Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, Saint-Émilion – $120
Consists of 60% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Lovely floral, plum and earthy notes came forward immediately on the nose. On the palate, the wine resembles BC Merlot tannins with plumy flavors.
60%梅洛、32%卡本內佛朗、8%卡本內蘇維翁,一靠近就能嗅到甜美的花果香,滑入舌尖後則展現出卑詩梅洛的單寧姿態和黑棗甜味。

11
11. Château Troplong Mondot, Saint-Émilion – $120
A 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc blend. This wine is tangy, green and juicy with ripe berry scents. Filled with sweet, ripe black cherries and bitter chocolate finish.
85%梅洛、10%卡本內蘇維翁、5%卡本內佛朗,濃郁的香味中充滿成熟果香,並以甜美的黑莓果和巧克力作結。

12
12. Château Suduiraut, Sauternes – $50
This is a very well priced Sauterne. If you like sweet wine, this will be a good one to invest in. Although this vintage wasn’t rated as high as it’s 2009 vintage, this is rated higher than the reds. Flavors of perfectly ripe tropical fruits lives harmoniously with honey notes in this wine, it is soft, elegant with just enough botrytis to give it that Sauterne twist.
這瓶Sauterne的定價非常合理,這瓶酒比起09年份的評分雖較低,但卻比起同酒莊的紅酒要來得高分,假如你喜歡甜酒,這將會是十分值得投資的一瓶。熟成的熱帶水果香味與蜂蜜的甜味融合得天衣無縫,柔和、細緻的酒體加上恰到好處的貴腐香氣盡顯Sauterne特質。

13
13. Château La Vieille Cure, Fronsac – $38
Produced from 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. This medium bodied wine consists of licorice, coffee bean, black cherry and earthy aromas. On the tongue it is fresh, flashy with cocoa and cherries. Peppered sausage or savory cheese would be a great pairing for this wine.
75%梅洛、20%卡本內佛朗、5%卡本內蘇維翁,這瓶中度酒體的紅酒充滿了甘草、咖啡豆、黑莓果等大地氣息,到了舌尖又散發出清新、俐落的可可與櫻桃味道。黑胡椒香腸或帶鹹味的芝士都是很好的食物配搭選擇。

14
14. Château Rahoul, Graves – $25
Blended from 69.5 % Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3.5% of a mixture of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. This wine expresses the minerality of its terroir in Graves. It is medium bodied, soft, rounded with fruity aromas. This is a good value wine and very popular each year.
69.5梅洛、27%卡本內蘇維翁、3.5%味而多與卡本內佛朗,這瓶酒充分展現了Graves土壤獨特的礦物味道。中度酒體加上柔和的果香,使得這瓶酒每年都成為搶購之選。

15
15. Château Poujeaux, Moulis – $38
Made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this wine is full of spice, blackberry, currants with tight tannins. Flavor is good and a must buy as it is a top value Bordeaux in its class.
由卡本內蘇維翁、梅洛和味而多調和而成,此酒充滿香辛的黑莓果、黑加侖氣息及濃重的單寧,不論在價值和口味方面都是波爾多葡萄酒中的超值之選。

16
16. Château Plince, Pomerol – $38
Blended from a mix of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this light to medium bodied wine is soft, well balanced with spicy red fruits.
由梅洛、卡本內佛朗和卡本內蘇維翁調和而成,酒體屬輕至中度,口味柔和、平穩而充滿香辛紅莓果香。

17
17. Château Montlabert, Saint-Émilion – $35
If you like Napa style wines, you will definitely enjoy this Bordeaux. This wine is bursting with oaky, barnyard, chocolate and ripe fruit flavors with tight tannin.
假如你喜歡那帕的葡萄酒風格,那你一定會喜歡這瓶波爾多。這瓶酒一入口即迸發出橡木、穀倉、巧克力與成熟果香及鮮明的單寧。

18
18. Château Berliquet, Saint-Émilion – $58
75% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc and a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon made this blend. Its flavor consists of coffee, black cherry with refined textures, a very well rounded wine.
75%梅洛、22%卡本內佛朗和微量的卡本內蘇維翁,源源不絕的咖啡、黑莓果味道,酒體細緻,整體表現平均。

19
19. Marquis de Calon, St- Estèphe – $38
A majority of Merlot is used in this wine. It is made for pairing with food with a jammy new world taste and earthy barnyard aromas.
整瓶酒主要由梅洛釀成,這瓶聞起來充滿穀倉大地氣息的紅酒帶點甜甜的果香,用來搭配食物最好不過。

Respectively, prices have dropped due to the rough weather conditions in 2011. However, wine investors are still paying 30% more than 2008. The distinction in quality and style between first, second and the little Château are apparent. However, some fine wine was made. This year isn’t as exciting as the past two vintages but it is as Parker has stated, “better than expected.”
For those of you who plan to camp early for the release, BC Liquor will have their resident chef ready with yummy food and beverages at the line up to make your wait more comfortable. For more info go to: www.bcliquorstores.com.
整體而言,2011年波爾多葡萄酒價格因為氣候的關係而整體下降,然而,投資者依然願意付出比2008年高出三成的價格來搶購;一線、二線和小酒莊之間的價格和品質差異頗為明顯。這一年的波爾多酒就像Parker所說的,即使明知不比前兩年優質,但「比想像中要好」!
有興趣提早到BC Liquor Store排隊搶購佳釀的朋友,酒鋪的駐場廚師將會為現場排隊者準備美食和飲品,為一眾美酒愛好者營造最舒適的「等待時光」。更多資訊請參考網站:www.bcliquorstores.com

Leave a Reply

(*) Required, Your email will not be published